The largest city in Europe in the 10th century, Cordoba was popularized in particular thanks to its leather (Cordoba gave shoemaker). From its past, the beautiful Andalusian retains the image of a tolerant city, where the Arab, Jewish and Christian religions are intertwined to the delight of the visitor. Here, not to spoil anything, all good addresses are in a pocket handkerchief. Bold, little!

From Guadalquivir to Mezquita
Try to sleep near the Guadalquivir, to take advantage of the grazing light in the early morning on the Mezquita (photo), the mosque that has become a cathedral. It is “THE” masterpiece of Cordoba, with its courtyard of orange trees where ablutions used to take place. Let’s face it: we mainly come to Cordoba to “see” it! A delight for the eyes, a wonder! Get there before 10 a.m., admission is free. And you will have the chants of mass to accompany you, which is not unpleasant.

This old mosque was built in the 8th century. Inside, we are literally dazzled by the forest of columns: 854 in total. The maqsura, the space in front of the mirhab, is one of the masterpieces of the “Arab baroque”, if we can dare this pun. The extensions of the Reconquest, which then give the Cathedral, are just as sublime.

Leaving, on the forecourt facing the old Moorish baths, stand in line to buy, in a small kiosk, churros, these enticing fried dough fritters, with hot chocolate. It’s very fat, but what is it good!

The city of tolerance
With a full stomach, stop for a few moments to visit the Moorish baths, built in the 10th century. You will be right next to the Alcazar, which you must visit if only for the beauty of its gardens with its well-ordered cypress alleys and its stables, right next door, which are worth visiting for their majestic vaults.

The mosque that has become a cathedral is a good example of the tolerance of this city, where Muslims, Jews and Catholics lived in peace from the 9th to the 12th centuries. The golden age of Cordoba. Stroll through the Juderia, the old Jewish ghetto, with its quirky alleys, its white walls bursting with sunshine, with flowers on the windows and the superb patios (casa Andalusi), to which a festival is devoted each year. In the 11th century, the Jewish community, which was the largest in the Iberian world, contributed to the prosperity of Cordoba.

The archaeological museum, a little higher, has just reopened. The opportunity to appreciate in situ the remains of the Roman theater. Very well done, the museum and each object that composes it, amuse themselves by relating the different eras to each other: we open the drawers, we raise our heads, everything lights up! All aspects of daily life are discussed, from leisure to food. Rich and fun! Nice little place on the forecourt, just opposite, for snacking or a drink.

Colors, flavors and smells
Try the salmorejos, a kind of thick vegetable soup with boiled eggs and bacon. An excellent address: Umami on calle Blanco Belmonte. The chef, who has worked with the greatest French cooks such as Ducasse, is having fun reinventing this typical Cordoba dish. It’s a delight, and it changes a little! There are the savory versions, and the sweet versions. Did you know what umami is? This is the famous last flavor, which is neither sweet, nor sour, bitter or salty, but a little bit of it all at once.

For a drink, sit near the Guadalquivir, in one of the large white rattan seats, or under the blades of the Fusion by SoJo bar, in Calle Enrique Romero de Torres, where you almost feel like you are in Havana.

The baths and hammams of the Hammam of Al Andalus are open until midnight. The opportunity may be to get a makeover. Hot and cold welcome (8°C / 36°C). Ideal for regaining strength for the next day.

We fill up on delicacies of all kinds, and especially in cold meats and cheeses, in particular Covap on Calle Barqueros, daily 10 am-2pm and 5.30 pm-9pm. Do not panic, everything is well packed in vacuum bags. You won’t intoxicate the whole plane

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