Whether it’s a question of fashion, belief or sport, the Camino de Compostela is getting a lot of attention. For this jackpot year of 2010, renewable every six years, e ultreïa, “further, let’s go!”
Different routes, coming from all over Europe, meet in Spain, to become the Camino francès, Chemin des Francs.

Classified by the Council of Europe, listed as World Heritage by Unesco, marked, provided with inns and magnificent monuments, this route roughly follows the historic route of the Middle Ages, described by the monk Aimery Picaud in 1140 The adventure is beautiful, for oneself, for others and for the landscape. Let’s go, step by step:

Camino francès

Rest assured, we can “do the Camino” in small pieces. The hard-core will follow the 800 km or so that lead from Roncevaux to Santiago de Compostela, or even further, towards Padron beach where, according to legend, the stone boat and the decapitated body of Saint Jacques failed. Major in the year of grace 44.

Since then, millions of pilgrims, or backgammons, have traveled the different routes to get to the saint’s tomb in “Santiago”. Since then, inns have replaced hospices and hotels have multiplied. In the media, would the pilgrimage have become a business? It is up to the pilgrim to decide.

We follow the Camino, on foot, on horseback or by bike. If you crack, come back another season and not be impressed by the Tartarins who tell their exploits in hostels! Personally, I prefer spring after Palm Sunday or fall before All Saints’ Day. Summer is scorching. The full winter is likely to be cold in the mountains of León and the wind blows on the Castilian plateau, but it is an experience to try.

You must prepare your steps on a guide map. Allow 20 to 30 km on foot per day, knowing that the standards of the French Federation of Hiking are 4 km per hour for an average walker. Aimery, he walked 60 to 80 km per day, but he had faith.

We compose our route according to our strengths and the numerous accommodation points indicated in the guides and on the Internet. ” On wave irà meu romeiro. Mei romero has wave irà? Camino de Compostela, non-sei si chegarà “(Where will my pilgrim go? My pilgrim where will he go? On the way to Compostela, I don’t know if he will arrive). Romance by Don Galiferos de Monmaltàn (Galicia).

Navarre and Pyrenean mountains

Preliminary: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port-Roncesvalles (28 km)

With the information collected at the Jacquaire association of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, we choose one of the three routes to cross the ports of Cize (1,344 meters) to Roncesvalles (Roncesvalles) (920 meters), former hospice and place of exploits of the valiant Roland (museum, collegiate church).

Roncesvalles-Zubiri (21.8 km)

Walk through the Navarrese villages with the coats of arms of Burguete, Espinal (church), and Zubiri (bridge, ford) where you will comfort yourself with a pacharàn, aniseed aperitif with slows.

Zubiri-Pamplona (20.8 km)

The shaded paths of the Arga valleylead to the monumental crossroads of Trinidad de Arre to enter the outskirts of the Navarrese capital. Pamplona (Pamplona) and its colorful alleys with wooden oriels (cathedral, Museum of Fine Arts, chistorra sausage and chilindron chicken) are well worth a few hours of visit.

Pamplona-Puente la Reina (24 km)

The plain is dominated by the Del Perdón hill (780 meters) where huge metallic pilgrims walk near the wind turbines facing the panorama of the Pyrenees. It surrounds the villages of Cizur Menor (churches), Uterga (coats of arms), Muruzábal (palace), Óbanos where Saint Félicie was killed by her brother, on his return from Compostela.

Crossing the path of Arles from Aragon (GR 65.3), make a jump to the marvelous octagonal chapel of Euñate. The monuments of Puente la Reina bear witness to this town turned towards the Camino.

Rioja and medieval villages

Puente la Reina-Estella (21.8 km)

Passing the medieval bridge, the path tries to avoid the N 111 and the A 12 motorway. Via Mañeru (coat of arms), Cirauqui (Roman road) and Lorca (bridge), it arrives at the town of Estella which “abounds in all delights”, according to Aimery Picaud Churches, convents and palaces enliven this “North Toledo”.

Estella-Los Arcos (21.3 km)

The Camino finally gets lost in the sunny solitudes: get up early and stock up on water… Don’t abuse the wine fountain of the Irache monastery, despite its sign: “Pilgrim if you want to arrive in Santiago… toast to bliss! ” Via Villamayor de Monjardín (castle, fountain, church), we cross desolate landscapes until Los Arcos(cloister).

Los Arcos-Logroño (27.9 km)

Following the N 111, the Camino continues up and down to Torres del Rio (chapel, coats of arms) and the medieval town of Viana, on the border of the Rioja. A “wavy” step that can make the knees suffer. The marshy landscape leads by a large bridge over the Ebro to the old town of Logroño (church, statue).

Logroño-Nájera (30.7 km)

Vineyards as far as the eye can see, a dam lake and the wooded natural park of La Grajera favor this stage close to the Nationale. On the heights, the ruins of an old hospice herald the arrival in Navarrete (potters, Romanesque portal). Despite the route of the motorway, the Camino progresses towards Nájera and its monuments (cloister, tombs).

From the vineyards to the Oca mountains

Nájera – Santo Domingo de la Calzada (21 km)

“Peregrino cuidado, pilgrim beware! We read on the walls. Bring provisions before crossing the Sierra de la Demanda, through the modest villages of Azofra and Cirueña. The high baroque tower of Santo Domingo which built the calzada or causeway on the Rio Oja, indicates his tomb. Municipal swimming pools are welcome before going to hear the rooster of the legend of the “hanged hanged man” singing, always present with his white hen, in the golden cage of the cathedral. Rest assured; they are changed every week!

Santo Domingo de la Calzada-Belorado (22.1 km)

The last vineyards of the Rioja undulate towards the province of Burgos, in Castile. The Camino runs along the N 120. A consolation, the villages are well supplied: Grañon, Redecilla del Camino (baptistery), Castildelgado, Villamayor del Río, up to Belorado (statues).

Belorado – San Juan de Ortega (24 km)

The harsh and magnificent landscape of Castile defies the hiker who still follows the route of the N 120. You can see the caves of anchorites in the cliffs before crossing the Oca mountains (1,100 m) under the holm oaks which once housed thieves and wolves. The old stones of Espinosa and Villafranca speak for themselves, before arriving at the monastery-refuge of San Juan de Ortega (tomb and furniture), Mecca of Camino, lost in a clearing of fir trees. Garlic soup invigorates at this altitude.

Meseta de Castille and cathedrals on the horizon

San Juan de Ortega – Burgos (29.3 km)

To avoid the N 120, it is best to descend into the plain via Atapuerca (prehistory) and Villalval. Follow the signposting of the gardens of the Rio Arlanzón, via Miraflores, to cross the endless suburbs of Burgos. Burgos and its splendid Gothic cathedral (museum, paintings) demand a day.

Burgos – Hontanas (29.4 km)

After Rabé, the meseta, a rugged plateau of Castile interspersed with cereal valleys, takes its rights. Go up and down to Hontanas (fountains), under the sun or bad weather that should be expected.

Hontanas-Frómista (34.6 km)

This flat route – phew! – but long, can be fragmented, the hostels being numerous. Even Napoleon’s armies found it difficult to cross the endless horizon of the Tierra de Campos. The austere solitude of Castrojeriz (ruins, churches) leads to meditation before going up to the old hospice San-Nicolás and crossing the Pisuerga by the noble Fitero bridge, limit of the province of Palencia. Cultivated fields are watered by the Castile canal to Boadilla (pillory) and Frómista (country house, Romanesque church).

Frómista- Carrión de los Condes (19.2 km)

The plain of Palencia seems to dilute endlessly. A monotony that must be combated by following – or not – the road whose villages bear the name of campos: Población, Revenga, Villarcázar de Sirga (church): a few bars before the confectionery of the Convent of Carrión (church, furniture).
Palencia and León, Roman roads and royal path

Carrión de los Condes – Terradillos de Templiaros (26.7 km)

Good news, after Benevivere Abbey, rural solitude is guaranteed, but “the road is long, long, long”. Think of the legionaries and templars walking on these endless lands of the páramo or the Valdepeñas wine that accompanies the suckling pig or roast lamb, specialties of Old Castile, that can help! Praying, singing or meditating leads to Calzadilla de la Cueza (cob houses), then Terradillos.

Terradillos de Templiaros – El Burgo Ranero (30,1 km)

Another long stage, straight towards the Romanesque-Mudejar churches of Sahagún, the “Spanish Cluny”, in the province of León, country of bricks and tiles. In Calzada del Coto, a more solitary variant exists by the Roman road, towards El Burgo Raneiro.

El Burgo Ranero – León (37.4 km)

You can cut this stage by stopping at Mansilla de las Mulas (ramparts) or Villamoros, to catch your breath before crossing the industrial zone of León and arrive in the center historic (cathedral, monasteries, place du Grain, casa de Gaudi).

León – Villadangos del Páramo (19.8 km)

The pilgrim is off to a good start in the footsteps of the legionaries and his old “friend”, the N 120. We can get away from itVirgen del Camino (statues) continuing more pleasantly on a marked and shaded path of oaks, by Fresno, Chozas de Abajo, Villar de Mazariffe and join Villadangos.

From the Maragatería to the Bierzo, wooden cross, iron cross

Villadangos del Paramo – Astorga (28.5 km)

Still on the flat grounds of the páramo, word meaning “desert”, a path once again avoids the N 120 and the Camino which runs along it, to find it at the magnificent Romanesque bridge of Órbigo. It departs again from the colorful villages of Villares and Santibañez before entering Astorga and its superb monuments (cathedral, Gaudí palace, hospice).

Astorga – Rabanal del Camino (20.6 km)

Reconstituted by a delicious cocido maragato with 7 meats, we climb without hesitation towards the mountains of León and its iron mines. The pilgrimage saved these characterful villages: Castrillo (listed habitat), then Santa Catalina and El Ganso to Rabanal.

Rabanal del Camino – Ponferrada (32.7 km)

This long stage, one of the most beautiful in the mountains of León, leads via Foncebadón, to the Cruz de Hierro or the Iron Cross (1,500 m) where it has been customary for millennia , wants you to leave a stone… (to be expected). The mountain villages follow one another by Manjarín, El Acebo, Riego, Molinaseca (bridge). Chestnuts and slate change the landscape down to Ponferrada (Templar castle, museum, palace).

Ponferrada – Villanfranca del Bierzo (22.6 km)

The Camino crosses through the Bierzo, green and winegrowing plain benefiting from a microclimate, through the villages of Fuentes Nuevas (Calvary) and Cacabelos (sanctuaries). Entrance toVillafranca del Bierzo (church, hospice) by the Romanesque door of Pardón, reward for many efforts, as well as a fried trout accompanied by a glass of berciano, tangy wine from Bierzo.

Passing through Galicia or the gates of heaven

Villafranca del Bierzo – O Cebreiro (27.9 km)

The passage from Castile to Galicia is not without difficulty. The Camino disputes it with the communication routes to cross the heights of Piedrafita through the pastoral villages of Trabadelo, Las Herrerías, La Faba. And here is O Cebreiro (church, treasure), mythical village on the way at 1,300 m above sea level, in the province of Lugo in Galicia. Roofs and thatched roofs cover certain dwellings.

0 Cebreiro – Triacastela (20.6 km)

The descent takes place through the granite and wooded reliefs of oaks from the Col de San Roque. Padornelo and As Pasantes lead to the century-old chestnut trees of Triacastela.

Triacastela – Sarria (18.5 km + 5 km via Samos)

What to choose, the Benedictine monastery of Samos (pilgrim cemetery) or the historic and wooded route of San Xil by Furela (church)? In both cases, the languorous gaze of the beautiful Galician cows accompanies the walker to Sarria (convents) where stores for the pilgrim’s collection are already piling up.

Sarria – Portomarín (22.4 km)

Finally, the 100 km marker, the distance to cover before Santiago! Tracks and corredoíras, sidewalks in flat stones to avoid the rivers, by Barbadelo (capitals), Brea and Ferreiros, lead to Portomarín (churches). Seafood, octopus, lampreys and shellfish are prepared in a sauce with green wine, a treat.

Montjoie and Compostelle

Portomarín – Palas de Rei (24.5 km)

Pines and eucalyptus herald the end of the journey. In order to avoid the tar, it is better to go through Hospital de la Cruz, Ligonde (cemetery) and Airexe (church) to join the N 547 at Palas de Rei (medieval houses).

Palas-de-Rei- Arzúa (29.4 km)

The province of La Coruña is a green countryside with lively granaries on pillars, the horreos. So close to the goal, we meditate by playing hide and seek with the N 547 by Casanova (Roman road) Melide (calvary, churches, shoe crafts, museum), Boente (coat of arms of wolves) up to Arzúa.

Arzúa – Lavacolla (28.8 km)

The etymology of the pilgrimage is dense: rúa, calzada, brea, taberna millions of pilgrims have passed before you, through Salceda and Pedrouzo. Inns and souvenirs are omnipresent up to Santiago-Lavacolla airport.

Lavacolla – Santiago de Compostella (10.1 km)

It’s time to organize your arrival in Santiago. The Monte do Gozo, French Montjoie where pilgrims knelt on their knees when they saw the holy city, welcomes walkers in its concrete tourist complex.
To wash as Aymeri Picaud did, but in the river, rest, dab your Credencial, and descend to Santiago , 4 km away, still on foot through the puerta del Camino and the old town, to the Plaza del Obradoiro where the facade of the Romano-Baroque cathedral of Santiago triumphs.

Most fans will continue 20 km to Iria Flavia (collegiate church) where the relics of Santiago de Compostela were collected.

E Suseia, higher, let’s go!

The growing Spanish jackpot network

For those looking for the revival of the pilgrimage and solitude, other jacquaire paths are marked in Spain. Let us only hope that tourism development does not take advantage of this mesh of paths in full expansion.

The Aragonese Way coming from Italy, by the way of Arles (GR 65.3)
Six stages and 165 km marked and magnificent. It crosses the Pyrenees in Somport and runs along the foothills via Jaca, Sangüesa, Puente la Reina.

The Chemin du Nord or the Côte
Trente-et-une stages from Irun. It crosses the fishing ports to Oviedo to descend to Galicia at Arzúa. It is joined by the primitive path and the path of the English arriving by boat to La Coruña.

The path of the Interior
Six stages from Irun to Brinas, passing through the San Adrian tunnel and its Roman road carved into a cave.

The Catalan paths
Eight stages from Montserrat, then Fraga and Zaragoza, with a variant via Huesca, to find the path to the Ebro.

The path of the Ebro
Eighteen steps from Deltebre to reach Logroño by Zaragoza.

The Way of the Savior
Five steps from León to Oviedo.

The English Channel
Five steps from Ciudad Real to Toledo.

The Chemin du Sud-Est
Twenty-nine stages from the coast and Chaves, passing through Ourense.

The path from Baztán
Six stages from Bayonne to Pamplona.

The path of the Sea along the Ulla to Padrón.

The Portuguese path
Three sections from Lisboa, via Coimbra, Villaverde and Pontevedra.

The Fisterra-Muxía path extends the Camino to Cape Fisterra in five stages.

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