Baden-Baden

During the Vosges across the Rhine, the Black Forest, mountainous massif of southern Germany, has been recognized as a biosphere reserve by Unesco since June 2017. But the 63,000 ha of Schwarzwald (its Germanic appellation), certainly covered by 70% of forest, have more varied landscapes than its name suggests: vineyards, pastures, low peaks, gentle hills, steep valleys, lakes and towns worth seeing. In particular Freiburg im Breisgau, to the south, and Baden-Baden, to the north. Two cities with very different styles, but full of charm.

Freiburg im Breisgau is the southernmost city in Germany, but also one of the sunniest. A radiant and green city, not only because it is on the edge of the Black Forest: its mayor was the first ecologist at the head of a town of this importance. The center is entirely pedestrian and, just to the south, the Vauban eco-district is a model of sustainable urban development.

If the greenery is very present, the water is not left behind. Because, since the Middle Ages, the bächle, small artificial streams fed by the Dreisam river, flow along the sidewalks, forming a network of 9 km. In summer, onlookers of all ages like to dip their feet there. In the tanners’ and fishermen’s districts, between the gates of Swabia (Schwabentor) and Saint-Martin (Martinstor), the only vestiges of the old wall, it is a wider channel which passes between the cobbled quays decorated with terraces of the cafes, bars or restaurants. And in the middle… it is indeed a crocodile head (made of stone!) Which comes to the surface.

Along the promenade, Friborg reveals an immutable charm, despite 80% destruction during the Second World War. Bombs spared the cathedral, or Münster, one of the most beautiful in the country. Its construction began around 1200 and was completed more than 300 years later. Its flamboyant Gothic style impresses, its pink color, that of the sandstone of the Black Forest, astonishes, and its size imposes: 133 steps lead to the top of the bell-tower of 116 meters, openwork like a lace of stone.

Upon entry, the porch fascinates with its 400 Biblical statues surrounding the beautiful carved wooden doors, the XVII th century. Inside, the stained-glass windows from the Middle Ages bear the coats of arms of the brotherhoods that participated in their financing: pretzel for bakers, scissors for tailors, boot for shoemakers, etc. Thanks to the four organs, concerts are organized regularly.

The place around the religious building captivates with its market , every morning except Sunday and public holidays, and by the residences of different eras: the most beautiful is that of the merchants, or Kaufhaus, intact since 1532, with colored tiles, arcades and small corner towers. The old guardhouse with the yellow facade, called Alte Wache, has become the house of Baden wine. Nearby, a baroque mansion from 1761 houses the city’s history museum, which is interesting, in particular, for its models of the city and the ramparts in 1600 or the fortifications of 1700, in the shape of a star.

Behind the cathedral square stretches nonchalantly Konviktstrasse, adorable cobbled street with a medieval layout, surmounted by a wisteria, bordered by a fountain, bächle, art galleries, antique dealers, pretty decoration or fashion boutiques and of colorful buildings: it looks like the South!

Around Friborg: vineyards and peaks

Schauinsland

The region’s enthusiasts call it German Tuscany. Admittedly, it is a land of viticulture, with the Kaiserstuhl and the Tuniberg , or, further north, Gengenbach , a charming village whose vines give very good wines.

But the surroundings of Friborg present especially a mountain aspect. The closest peak is called Schauinsland (1,284 m above sea level), which can be reached by walking or taking the cable car and where hiking and cross-country skiing are practiced. The highest point in the Black Forest, the Feldberg (1493 m) is located some 40 km south-east of Freiburg. It offers a captivating panorama of the Alps, the Vosges and the nearby surroundings, dotted with lakes, such as Titisee, popular for navigation, or Schluchsee, the largest body of water in the Black Forest.

In addition to natural beauty, there is a wealth of local traditions. Starting with the cuckoo clocks of which the Black Forest is the cradle … You can admire a vast collection of them at the German Clock Museum, in Furtwangen, 40 km east of Friborg. It has some 8,000 pieces from around the world, from sundials to rare watches, including pendulums.

Further north, the very touristy village of Triberg has a Black Forest museum or (Schwarzwaldmuseum) which also exhibits magnificent clocks, but also automata, barrel organs and ancient costumes.

To stay in the folklore, you have to visit the open-air ecomuseum of Vogtsbauernhof. Traditional buildings have been restored and craftsmen demonstrate ancestral skills in mills, ovens, forges and farms, one of which dates from 1570.

Continuing further north, towards Baden-Baden, the crest road (B500) is punctuated by splendid landscapes: moors, ruins, waterfalls and lakes are revealed over the kilometers.

Baden-Baden, a culture bath

Trinkhalle

Baden-Baden is the German city where lives the most millionaires compared to the number of inhabitants… The craze of the high society for this small city goes back to the XIXEcentury, it was then considered as the summer capital of the Europe. Romantic artists and famous authors like Victor Hugo, Gérard de Nerval or Alfred de Musset, came there on holiday, drawing their inspiration from the landscapes of waterfalls, rocks and resplendent vegetation. Queen Victoria, Napoleon III and Brahms also frequented the spa.

In the Trinkhalle, people came to drink mineral water, but also paraded along a colonnade of 90 meters. A Russian woman, who went down to the hotel opposite this chic refreshment bar, completed in 1842, changed her dress nine times a day to strut before the greats of this world. Or at the nearby casino, still in operation, the most beautiful in the world according to Marlene Dietrich.

Spa treatment

Originally, it was the Romans who built the first thermal baths around 2,000 years ago. Today there are twelve sources, gushing at 68 ° C, known for their benefits against joint pain, cardiovascular and respiratory problems. The emperor Marc-Aurèle had treated his rheumatism there.

The remains of these infrastructures (Römische Badruinen) are attached to the Friedrichsbad, one of the two spa establishments in Baden-Baden, inaugurated in 1877. Every day from 9 am to 10 pm, men and women follow, in the simplest device, traditional treatments during a 17-step route, with massages, steam baths, whirlpools or colds, aquatic gym, rest room, etc.

Another possibility is the Caracalla thermal baths, dating from 1985, mixed but with swimsuits, where you can book treatments. Or simply “enjoy” the large swimming pools (indoor and outdoor), water jets, hot tubs, saunas, hammam, cold water cave (18 ° C), saline inhalation room, etc.

Art cure

From spa town, Baden-Baden has diversified into a city ​​of culture. The old station, the end of the XIX th century, became an opera of 2500 seats, the second largest in Europe after the Bastille Opera. Its programming is prestigious and eclectic: operas, of course, but also ballets, musicals and concerts.

Another cultural flagship, the Frieder Burda museum, in a 2004 building designed by the American Richard Meier. The immense white and bright volumes, thanks to the large picture windows, offer a nice distribution of space, ideal for presenting monumental pieces.

The private collection includes a thousand paintings, photos and sculptures by Picasso, Rothko, Pollock, Polke, de Kooning, Georg Baselitz, Gerhard Richter, Neo Rauch, Max Beckmann, Niki de Saint-Phalle, etc. But these works are not permanently visible. It is mainly temporary thematic exhibitions that are organized. A footbridge connects the modern and refined building to another museum, with classical architecture: the Staatliche Kunsthalle, dedicated to contemporary art… Proof that Baden-Baden is not satisfied with its glorious past!

Around Baden-Baden, castles and great wines

Schloss Favorite

North of Baden-Baden, two superb castles are worth a visit. The Schloss Rastatt is a mini-Versailles, a palace which German architects were inspired to build, in 1700, this residence of Louis the Turk. In the princely apartments, the baroque shines. The castle also houses a military museum, with exhibits ranging from the Middle Ages to the First World War, and a Freedom Memorial, celebrating liberation movements in German history, until the fall of the Wall. Berlin.

Equally Baroque but in a more delicate style, the Schloss Favorite, or castle of the favorite, is a lovely building of the beginning of the XVIII century, when staying in summer Sibylla Augusta, wife of Louis the Turk. The interior decoration abounds with stuccos, frescoes, chinoiseries, rich collections of porcelain and rare earthenware.

South of Baden-Baden, it is the winemakers who reign over the Rebland, one of the most famous wine regions of Germany, in particular for its production of Riesling. To explore by following the Baden wine route, or Badische Weinstrasse.

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