Netherlands: Haarlem, the beautiful Dutchwoman
About twenty kilometers west of Amsterdam lies Haarlem, an ancient city with a charming historic center. Crossed by a river and canals, rich in streets and alleys harmoniously lined with beautiful houses, it also includes monuments and museums that one takes pleasure in visiting. The one dedicated to the painter Frans Hals, a native of this city, alone deserves the trip. Nearby, the dunes of Zuid-Kennemerland national park, as well as the beaches of the North Sea, offer beautiful natural escapes.
Haarlem, along the water and the canals
Even before designating a famous New York neighborhood, Haarlem is a charming town of Holland, which dates to the 9 th century.
Today capital of the province of North Holland , it has become prosperous thanks to the textile industry, the construction of boats, the creation of many breweries, or even the culture of the tulip. We are therefore not surprised to see beautiful houses along its streets. Publishing, printing, pharmacy, or services are now part of the activities of this city in which we like to settle for its pleasant setting.
Despite its charms, some Haarlemois once sailed to settle on other lands, such as that of the American island of Manhattan. In the 17 th century, Dutch settlers founded Nieuw Haarlem, under the authority of the Governor Pieter Stuyvesant also in charge of Nieuw-Amsterdam was to become New York. Thus, was born the famous district of Harlem.
Haarlem is crossed by canals, as well as by the Spaarne river. Also, during your walks you constantly come across these rivers which contribute to the seduction that the city operates on you.
If you wish, you can board a small cruise ship or rent a boat without a license. Since water or docks, you are struck by the majestic silhouette of Molen Adriaan, typical Dutch windmill 18 th century, destroyed by fire, had to be completely rebuilt. No matter, it is magnificent! So is the door of Amsterdam (15 th century), the turrets are reflected in the Spaarne.
In the streets of Haarlem
Haarlem has many monuments and architectural nuggets. On the Grand Place (Grote Markt), there is the town hall of medieval origin, the Vleeshal or Halle meats, superb building of 17th century, emblematic of the golden age of Haarlem.
Opposite, here is the Grote of Sint-Bavokerk – alias Saint-Bavon church -, whose majestic allure is striking. This Gothic building lined with stalls became a Protestant church when the reformed religion has established its dominance in 16 th century.
See also in town, the amazing Kathedrale Basiliek Sint Bavo (Cathedral Basilica St. Bavo, 19th century), the Romanesque influences blend style and Byzantine particular. It is dedicated to Catholic rites, after they have been observed for a long time in schuilkerken , churches hidden behind anonymous facades – places of worship that can also be devoted to other religions.
Other important elements of Haarlem’s ancient heritage are to be discovered, such as the hofjes. Many of these sets of small houses built as “social housing” take the form of enclosed, often adorable, courtyards.
In the Gouden Straatjes (golden streets), shopping lovers do not fail to lick the windows of shops devoted to art, crafts, design, antiques, fashion.
And when it comes to places to eat or drink, you can find them everywhere. In the evening, the terraces are very lively. Walking according to your desires in the streets and alleys of the center of Haarlem is therefore a continuous pleasure. As long as you take care of the cyclists who hold the upper hand here, motorized vehicles are rare.
The Frans Hals museum, a must in Haarlem
In a city so full of history, it is not surprising to find a lot of museums. Two of them are particularly remarkable.
The Frans Hals Museum is named after a famous painter of the 17 th century which is one of the most renowned Dutch portraitists. We can see here especially large paintings by his hand which represent officers of the Haarlem guild. Works by contemporary Frans Hals also part of the collections of this museum in a former hospital of the 17 th century.
Until February 24, 2019 . The museum offers “Frans Hals en de Modernen”, an exhibition which brings together works of Hals with copies made as training by painters who have become famous. Tables inspired by the themes of this great artist are also presented. Signed Hals, Manet, Van Gogh, Liebermann, Singer Sargent, Fantin-Latour, or Courbet, these treasures come from various museums and private collections.
The Teylers Museum , on the other hand, is a surprising building whose entrance is reminiscent of that of a theater. It was built in the late 18 th century by the will of the merchant Pieter Teyler, which adhered to the ideas of the Enlightenment. In what is the oldest museum in the Netherlands, you discover spaces that have hardly changed where artistic and scientific collections are gathered, as well as a library. Guaranteed time travel.
Until January 6, 2019. In modern rooms, you can visit the exhibition “Leonardo da Vinci” which shows more than 30 original drawings of the latter, as well as works by a dozen contemporaries and followers, as well as a life-size replica of “The Last Supper”. These pieces come from all over the world.
Other museums may interest you: Museum Haarlem (history of the city), Het Dolhuys (national museum of psychiatry), ABC Architectuurcentrum, Archeologisch Museum Haarlem, Draaiorgelmuseum (mechanical musical instruments).
Near Haarlem: tulips, beaches and hikes
In Lisse, south of Haarlem, the Keukenhof park is a must. Open only in spring, its 32 hectares are then covered with more than 7 million flowers, including 800 different kinds of tulips! Spaces and entertainment for children are on the program. From March 21 to May 19, 2019.
To the west of Haarlem is the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park, which offers landscapes made up of dunes and marshes, fascinating landscapes to discover during walks and hikes.
Crossing this park takes you to the North Sea at the edge of which are the beaches of Bloemendaal and Zandvoort.
Finally, east of Haarlem, you have a town called Amsterdam.
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