It is often forgotten in the north of Spain, on the way to Galicia. Capital of Cantabria, Santander is just over an hour’s drive from Bilbao, heading west. It must be said that its unsightly periphery rather makes you want to go its way. But we must not trust appearances. Behind the main roads, it is home to one of the most beautiful bays in the world, remarkable buildings, a large museum of contemporary art and beaches prettier than each other. It is not for nothing that the Spanish royal family made it the favorite destination of their summer holidays in the 20th century. It’s up to you to discover it

To get to know Santander and its majestic bay, there is no better introduction than the promenade on the seafront, the Paseo de Pereda. Very popular, the artery teems with life in the morning: you come to walk your dog there, drink a coffee, admire the bay on a bench, take the boat…

Elegant buildings of 19 e s face the bay. They feature balconies and oriels (bay windows) typical of Santander. It is also one of the oldest avenues in the city. It has indeed escaped one of its greatest dramas: a gigantic fire, in 1941. It also reveals an imposing building with a large arch, under which the cars circulate: the Edificio Banco de Santander, one of the emblems of the city, which since 1923 has housed the headquarters of Banco Santander, the most important Spanish bank.

The latter was created in 1857 under Elizabeth II, in order to facilitate trade between the port of Santander and Latin America. At the helm for generations and generations: the Botin family. The same that is at the origin of the Botin Foundation (1964) and the Centro Botin Contemporary Art Museum. Right in front, it overlooks the bay and the beautiful gardens of La Pereda, a nice corner of nature in the center. They owe their name to the great Cantabrian writer José María de Pereda, as evidenced by a large sculpture depicting scenes from his books.

Explore the bay by boat

The bay of Santander is a marvel. It is also part of the “Club of the most beautiful bays in the world “, alongside forty-two others, scattered all over the planet. Covering an area of 23 km 2, it seems immense … And again, it was all the more so in the past: almost double! Previously, the first streets on the seafront (and in particular the walk we just did) did not exist. The bay has indeed been redesigned from the 18 th century.

To measure all its beauty, nothing beats a walk on the water. We board a boat from the company “Los Reginas”, which provides regular connections between Santander, Pedrena and Somo (opposite). A means of transport like any other, here in Santander! As it moves away from the pier, the city gives itself up as a whole. We can clearly see its construction on two levels: in the background, buildings perched on the hill and, in the foreground, the added streets that came to “nibble” on the bay.

As laid on its calm waters, the sandbank, “El Puntal”, 3 km long, is a paradise for cormorants, seagulls and gulls … and beach goers, in summer. Their big game: say hello to the passengers! Behind a beautiful wooded peninsula reveals an intriguing building: The Palace of the Magdalena, built in the early 20 th century for King Alfonso XIII.

Stopover at Somo

On the other side, mountains and green landscapes emerge. At the edge of the bay, a first village appears: Pedrena, from which the golfer Severiano Ballesteros comes. Considered one of the best, it is the pride of the entire region. The golf of Pedrena, where he trains, nestles in the greenery, overlooking the bay.

We are happy to stop over at the next village, Somo. Its long and wild beach makes everyone and especially surfers happy. It also offers a breath-taking view of Santander, the peninsula, the small islands.

Beaches in the city and a superb peninsula

The beach in town, a luxury? Santander offers it to us! And not only once: it shelters, all the same, more than a dozen. Turquoise waters, golden sand, small islands nearby all our dreams of idyllic beaches are fulfilled. These include Playa de Los Peligros, linked by a walkway to Playa Magdalena, ideal for families because it is well protected. As its name suggests, it is located at the foot of the peninsula and the royal palace.

In the early 20 th century, Santander became in effect the holiday destination of King Alphonso XIII and his wife, Queen Victoria Eugenia (it gave its name to one of the main avenues). In 1908, the municipal council decided to offer them a palace, thanks to a subscription to the local population. Thus, was born the Palacio Real de la Magdalena. Each summer, from 1913 to 1930, the arrival of the royal family and their courtiers transformed Santander into the state’s political capital. His stays stop in 1931, the year of the Second Republic.

It was at this time that the most emblematic buildings in the city were built, such as the Hotel Real, high perched, and the Grand Casino, opposite the majestic Playa El Sardinero. Its blond sand takes place over 1.3 km. We can imagine the aristocracy treading it, in the last century.

It is also the start of a pleasant walk of around 6 km (AR) to the Cabo Mayor lighthouse along a cliff-side path. Along the way, secluded beaches, such as playa de Matalenas, nestled in a small cove. The highlight of the show: the Cabo Mayor and its 30m lighthouse, built in 1839. The view of the coast is magnificent.

It is open and free to visit, all year round from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. (summer, from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.). Oaks, palm trees, maritime pines, poplars, plane trees, Lebanon cedars its 24.5-hectare park is incredibly wooded. The perfect place for a walk and a picnic.

It also offers great views of the island Mouro, in the waves, where stands one of three flagship Santander (1858). If, in summer, it seems peaceful, it faces the worst storms in winter … the waves then manage to completely cover it. A sacred spectacle very often immortalized by impressive shots.

A large road winds up to the royal palace, with English, French and local influences. The interior can be visited on weekends (paid entry). The pieces are largely reconstructions, but some elements are original: the very beautiful floor of the Ballroom, for example. Since 1944, it has hosted the headquarters of the Menendez Pelayo International University.

Architectural walk in the city center

In the historic district, there is not much left… Just after the civil war, on February 15, 1941, Santander experienced another great tragedy: a gigantic fire! It will devastate a large part of Old Santander.

To measure the extent of the drama, go to the square of the Catedral de Santander. Near the pool, an explanatory panel retraces the path of fire, fanned by a strong south wind (it refers to an interesting mobile application, “incendio Santander”). The result: enormous damage, some 120,000 m 2 of ruins and rubble! The cathedral, in a very sober Gothic style, was among the victims. It took a good ten years to restore it.

They are actually two churches in one. The first, located in the lower part of 13 th century. It is the oldest building in the city. In this very low-ceilinged monument, a glazed floor suggests the remains of Roman baths. Built above the upper church of 14 th and the cloister of the 15 th.

At that time, a bridge linked it to the Church of La Anunciación, which can be seen right in front, across Calle Calvo Sotelo. Besides, the large pool of water in which the cathedral is reflected is there to remind us that here passed Ria de Becedo, dividing the city in two.

When the sun cooperates, Santander becomes a city of colors and reflections. We often have our noses in the air, to admire the facades of buildings, yellow, red, blue … and very often provided with oriels. These windows, which protrude, form pretty loggias, where we can see (discreetly, huh) People reading, eating or watching us.

We quickly distinguish two main types of architecture: roughly speaking, before and after the fire. This is particularly evident in Plaza Ayuntamiento. When you turn your back on the town hall – Casa Consistorial, built in 1907 – you can see in the street opposite (calle Jesus de Monasterio) a string of pretty buildings. All in finesse, they display colorful façades with oriels. This is what Santander looked like before the fire.

Then just turn your head to the left to see, on Isabel II Street, large unadorned, massive, imposing buildings. Not very fun, all that. Logic: these buildings are representative of the architecture of the reconstruction, under the dictator Francisco Franco. Besides, since 1964, stood on this square a statue in his effigy. It was only removed in December 2008. It was then the last in place in Spain, those of Madrid and Guadalajara having been withdrawn in 2005.

The gigantic Botin contemporary art center has been watching us since our arrival in town. Inaugurated in 2017, it is signed Renzo Piano, the Italian architect at the origin of the Center Georges-Pompidou in Paris and the museum of the Beyeler foundation in Basel, among others.

The building revolves around two volumes, erected on stilts, 7 m above the ground. They are interconnected by a structure of squares and steel walkways. Despite his greatness, he knows how to camouflage himself in the landscape. A real chameleon, they say! Partly suspended above the bay, it almost seems to float. Its ceramic coating (270 pieces!) Reflects the light of the water and the Pereda gardens. Redesigned during its construction, they went from 2 to 4.8 hectares. The bluish exterior floor, which they have in common, was designed as an extension of the bay. And it has its small effect.

The rooftop, with free access, offers one of the most beautiful panoramas of Santander and the bay. So, we don’t hesitate for a second: we climb everything up there.

The western volume, dedicated to art, offers 2,500 m 2 of exhibition space, including a permanent part. All in an exceptional setting: a large picture window reveals the bay of Santander. The temporary exhibitions focus on great masters. Latest: Calder and its famous colored mobiles. On the program, in 2020: the African American visual artist Ellen Gallagher and the Franco-German artist Thomas Demand.

After the visit, nothing like a short break on the terrace of the museum café-restaurant, deployed on the quay. A good place to perk up while enjoying the view.

Art of living in Santander: places, tapas and festivities

As in any city where life is good, there is no shortage of places in Santander! Some are home to important buildings, such as Plaza del Ayuntamiento (town hall) and Plaza de las Atarazanas (cathedral). Without forgetting Plaza Alfonso XIII: the “Correos” post office (1918) and the Banco de Espana (1924) are miracles of the fire.

Built after the fire in a neoclassical style, the huge Plaza Porticada (real name “Plaza de Velarde”) suggests the remains of the ancient walls of the 13 th century, through a window. To see them more closely, we visit the Archaeological Center of the medieval ramparts. At the entrance to the square, we stop for a moment in front of the statue of Pedro Velarde, Cantabrian hero of the Spanish War of Independence.

For a coffee, we are happy to go to the pleasing Plaza Pombo. For an ice cream with a view of the Grand Casino and EL Sardinero beach, in Plaza de Italia. In the evening, for a drink and eat tapas, go to the popular and lively Plaza de Canadio.

To fill of typical products (Cantabria or Spain in general), the gateway by the covered market of Esperanza, housed in a lovely hall early 20 th century. Bellota ham, canned Cantabrian anchovies … without forgetting the cheeses, made from cow’s milk, goat’s milk, sheep’s milk … or even mixed milk.

The sweet beaks will taste “quesada pasiega”, a cake made with fresh cheese typical of Cantabria. A delight! The “sobao pasiego”, which recalls the pound cake, is not bad either … We see it everywhere. In the basement, do not miss the large fish market. No doubt, the ocean is not far!

Santander is home to other museums than the Centro Botin. The Museo de prehistoria y archeologia de Cantabria promises a real journey back in time, to the origins of man (skull of homo sapiens, cave reproduction) and of Roman times.

For its part, the Museo Maritimo traces the maritime and industrial activity of Cantabria, since Roman times. We are amazed in front of the gigantic whale skeleton: 23.50 m! Without forgetting the Biblioteca Menendez Pelayo.

To attend a concert, go to the Palacio de Festivales, whose exterior appearance leaves no one indifferent. Four columns, different materials, green, white, blue this atypical theater was built in 1990 by the famous Spanish architect Francisco Javier Sáenz de Oiza. It hosts every year in August the Festival Internacional de Santander, one of the oldest music festivals in Spain (1952). On the program: operas, theater, recitals, concerts.

Spain visa assistance for Singaporeans.