The Terres de l’Ebre, life-size
Right in the south of Spanish Catalonia, Terres de l’Ebre offers a whole range of attractions for travelers looking for an authentic destination, far from the crowds: small fishing villages with a strong character, long beaches of fine sand and unspoiled nature , between lagoons and mountains , where hikers will easily find material to wear their soles. And all this just a few hours away from France. So, what are we waiting for to explore the Terres de l’Ebre?
Located in the province of Tarragona, Terres de l’Ebre was designated a biosphere reserve by Unesco in 2013. A deserved label.
From the coast to the mountains, the four regions they occupy (Terra Alta, Ribera d’Ebre, Baix d’Ebre and Montsià) present a remarkable mosaic of landscapes and ecosystems. Mountains, river islands, creeks, dense forests and the Ebro river make up this unique region in Spain, without forgetting, of course, the famous Ebro Delta with its rice fields, and the fabulous delta natural park where you can observe of hundreds of bird species .
To get an idea of the diversity of these landscapes, you can, for example, climb to the summit of Caro, the highest point of the Ports massif, also a natural park. From there, there is a panoramic view of the entire Ebro valley, the coast and the mountain ranges of Pàndols, Cavalls and Cardó.
For those who prefer to stay by the sea, the coastline is full of treasures. On the north coast, secret coves with translucent waters nestle at the foot of ocher cliffs, where pines hang. To the south, they give way to long sandy beaches, which descend gently into the sea, aquamarine color.
And the icing on the cake for swimmers, the water quality is particularly good, the floating blue flag on seven beaches and marinas of Ampolla and the Ametlla de Mar.
In the tranquility of the fishing villages
Along the coastline, there are charming fishing villages. It is good to stop around their small ports, to soak up the relaxed lifestyle of this Catalan region.
At l’Ametlla de Mar, which has preserved the fortifications built during the Civil War, there are feasts of fish and seafood, cooked with art. You can, for example, enjoy a good sarsuele, the local bouillabaisse, or with the surprising arròs negre (black rice), in cuttlefish ink. And if the meal was not too rich, we will go walking on the GR 92, to discover the calas, these coves with crystal clear waters.
A little further south, the village of Ampolla has been installed since Antiquity at the mouth of the Ebro. There the sea, the land and the river meet. Along the coast, there are successive sandy and pebble beaches, lagoons and dunes, at the tip of Fangar, where the sunrises are fabulous.
On the other side of the Ebro, Sant Carles de la Ràpita is a small seaside resort perfect for those who want to enjoy the beaches, which stretch for 20 km. This ancient Arab fortress is today one of the most dynamic ports on the Catalan coast and has been designated as the gastronomic capital of Terres de l’Ebre. Here too, you can taste delicious local cuisine, especially oysters and mussels, raised in the Bay of Alfacs.
Finally, about ten kilometers away, the white houses of the village of Les Cases d’Alcanar stand out. There, you can taste the tranquility of this small languid fishing port on the edge of an emerald sea while nibbling on llagostí, large grilled shrimps, cooked a la plancha with coarse salt. The Mediterranean dream.
Outdoor activities
In Terres de l’Ebre, visitors have the choice between a wide range of activities. On its 142 km long coastline, bordered by cliffs, beaches and coves, you can go swimming or water sports.
Whether you like sea kayaking, sailing or fishing, you will always find what you are looking for in the Alfacs Bay. For windsurfing or kitesurfing, we will go to the isthmus of Trabucador, an excellent spot. And if you want to discover the Ebro in an original way, you will board a replica of llauts, the old traditional boats, to navigate the river between Ascó and Miravet.
There is no shortage of hiking trails for walks in the great outdoors. On the GR 99, we follow the course of the Ebro, while the GR 7 crosses the natural park of Ports, where we can also practice canyoning and climbing. Beautiful walks are also to be done in the natural park of the Ebro Delta.
Those who prefer to pedal can easily get on their bikes. With family or friends, you can choose to follow the route of the old Vall de Zafán railway or to enter the wildest corners of the Ebro Delta Natural Park , taking rural paths and small local roads along the basins, rice fields and lonely beaches.
On the way to the Terra Alta greenway, we meet the convent of Sant Salvador, at the foot of the Santa Bàrbara mountain, and the medieval village of Horta de Sant Joan. And on that of Baix Ebre, we cross the villages of Xerta and Aldover, whose religious buildings are remarkable, and we set down our bicycle in Tortosa, the capital of the comarca of Baix Ebre, with a rich cultural heritage.
Finally, the festivals that punctuate the year are a good opportunity to discover the Catalan culture, gastronomy and traditions of this region attached to its identity.
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