Saint Mark’s Square, Doge’s Palace, Rialto … Places that make you dream, but often very crowded. Fainted, the poetry of the Serenissima? No! From alleys to small squares, from forgotten palaces to pleasant neighborhoods, from contemporary art to classical concerts, the City of the Doges still has something to amaze. Here are our favorites to discover a still popular Venice, off the beaten track…

Walk in Cannaregio

As the first district out of the station, Cannaregio has nothing a priori of the intimidating splendors of San Marco. This is what makes all the charm of this sestiere (district) where a third of the Venetians live, or 20,000 people. Cannaregio, which still resists mass tourism, has kept its popular soul with its narrow streets where you can find humble artisan shops and neighborhood bars frequented by regulars.

But make no mistake about it… Adjoining San Marco and bordered on its south by the Grand Canal, Cannaregio has its architectural treasures such as the Madonna dell’Orto church or the sumptuous Ca ‘d’Oro , one of the most beautiful Venetian mansions of the 15th century.

Between palaces and simple canals, Cannaregio offers walking pleasures where the contrasts of a Venice not yet museified are concentrated. At night, he wraps himself in a most mysterious atmosphere, once the streets are deserted, when the shadows are reflected on the houses and the clicking of your heels on the cobblestones resounds in silence.

Also, not to be missed is the Ghetto, created in the 16th century between the Cannaregio Canal and the Rio della Misericordia for the Jewish community. Today, it is scattered throughout the city. Only 300 Jews still live in Venice.

Remarkable for its tallest buildings in Venice, this rather modest district is full of charm, especially along the Rio de San Girolamo or on the Ghetto Nuovo campo. He particularly fascinated Hugo Pratt and Luchino Visconti who filmed several scenes from Senso there. Do not miss its synagogues.

Dolce vità in Dorsoduro

In Dorsoduro, too, neighborhood life has not disappeared, especially around Campo Santa Margherita, a large, lively square that we love.

It’s simple, there is all the charm of Italian village life: public benches, children playing ball, families come to nibble a piece of pizza or porchetta and lively cafes where students meet nearby university. With its simple colorful houses, its small morning market and its nocturnal effervescence, the Campo Santa Margherita is one of the coolest corners of Venice.

Continuing south, from alleys to canals, we arrive at the quays of Dorsoduro, the Zattere which face the Giudecca. Ideal for strolling or taking a break after the hustle and bustle of the center and the rush in the museums.

You breathe the air of the open sea and, thanks to the southern exposure, you can even sunbathe, while lying on the pontoons. Bars and restaurants offer their terraces to walkers.

On the side of the Arsenal

To the east of San Marco lies the Castello district, which can be reached from St. Mark’s Square by following the Riva degli Schiavoni, from where you can see the ballet of ferries and vaporetti.

Moving away from San Marco, the area offers pleasant and peaceful walks. Do not hesitate to stroll around Campo Bandiera e Moro, stop at the Scuola San Giorgio degli Schiavoni with his Carpaccio paintings, then continue towards the Arsenal and the public gardens at the end of the Castello.

On the Arsenale campo stands the entrance to the Arsenal – which now belongs to the army and the city – with curiosity: two imposing statues of lions, symbols of Venice, dating from the 17th century. Then, we can continue towards the public gardens: here is the popular Venice, from plots to canals, there are even HLMs! No gray towers, rest assured.

As in Santa Margherita, it feels like … in Italy. Laundry drying at the windows, riverside people chatting, pretty market on the side of Via Garibaldi … what happiness! At the end, two islands, accessible by footbridges – San Pietro di Castello and Sant’Elena – and the public gardens created by Napoleon. It exudes a soothing atmosphere, to be enjoyed if possible, at the end of the day.

Island hopping

One of the pleasures of Venice is to get around by boat. Besides the fabulous ascent of the Grand Canal, you can stroll in the lagoon which has no less than eighty islands!

They are not all interesting, but, moving away from the center, there are some nuggets. Go there using public boats, much cheaper than organized excursions.

Everyone has heard of the Murano glassblowers, the lovely colorful houses of Burano and the Lido with its film festival. But there is still a lot to discover, like Torcello and the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta with its astonishing 12th century Byzantine mosaic or San Michele with its cemetery which can only be reached by boat.

No need to go far from San Marco: opposite, the island of San Giorgio Maggiore(photo) proudly displays its majestic 16th century church, masterpiece of the brilliant Palladio. From the top of its bell tower, incredible view of Saint Mark’s Square, the Doge’s Palace and, in the distance, the mountains.

Next door, between the lagoon and the Dorsoduro, La Giudecca also has its Palladian church, the Chiesa del Redentore . It is also a lively district, with university residences, a cultural center and an AJ.

Contemporary art and opera

Venice cannot be reduced to the evanescent and old-fashioned beauties of its glorious past. La Sérénissime is increasingly asserting itself as an international contemporary art center.

The Biennale and the Peggy-Guggenheim Museum had already installed the city on the world map of 20th century art. Our national François Pinault took over with two museums which quickly became local institutions.

After admiring the canvases of the Venetian golden age at the Accademia, cross the bridge and take a tour of the Palazzo Grassi, reopened in 2005 and superbly restored by the architect Tadao Ando, ​​who has done it in style. François Pinault exhibits there in rotation works from his collection of contemporary art, which is one of the largest in the world.

In 2009, the industrialist struck a big blow with the reopening, at the tip of Dorsoduro, of the old sea customs, which overlooks the Saint-Marc basin: the Punta della Dogana now houses the second “Pinault museum” »Completely redesigned by Tadao Ando.

Finally, for fans of classical music, La Fenice , a legendary 18th century theater several times destroyed by fire and reconstructed identically, offers concerts and operas throughout the year. It is possible to reserve your places from France on the Internet – it is not necessarily expensive – and collect them at the cash desk.

Leaving, amazed, you can stroll through the alleys plunged into the darkness of San Marco and finish with a spritz or a bellini at Caffè Florian. It’s no longer really unusual, but the charm still works.

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