Straddling two departments, Isère and Drôme, the Vercors massif, dominated by the Grand Veymont, is a haven of peace, unexpected, both alpine and Mediterranean, authentic and terribly wild.

An impregnable rock fortress, the Vercors, which remained isolated for a long time, was in history a land of spirituality and resistance. Become a field of activities in the open air, and in particular of excursions, the Vercors remains still little known, especially in its southern part.

Some say that it is the end of the world less than an hour’s drive from Valence TGV station. Ready for a trip to unknown land on the Vercors highlands.

Le Royans, gateway to the South Vercors

25 km from Valence TGV station, Saint-Nazaire-en-Royans spends quiet days in the foothills of the Vercors. This village is the ideal gateway to familiarize yourself with this medium mountain range, better known for its heroic resistance during the Second World War than for its hiking trails.

A tour of the aqueduct located next to the tourist office allows you to observe the landscape from a height of 35 meters. On the right, the Combe Laval fault is visible at the bell tower of the Pont-Royan church. On the left, the Bourne gorges appear like a gaping fault, a natural border between the two departments.

At the foot of the aqueduct flow the peaceful waters of the Bourne. We can see, by leaning slightly, a cruise ship with a ferris wheel a little kitsch. Let’s go for a fifty-minute cruise (2 hours round trip unless you prefer to come back on foot) on the calm waters of the river Isère, in the heart of a reed bed and its abundant fauna! During the crossing, three black kites and two gray herons fly over the boat in the direction of the nut driers located near the shore.

The walk ends in the village of La Sône, once marked by the culture of the silkworm and by its “grinding” factories. At the rowing club, the boat stops at the entrance to the garden of the petrifying fountains.

Classified remarkable garden since last year, this haven of freshness is a mixture of natural sculptures shaped by limestone and pools staged with poetry. The visits are ensured in turn by one of the five gardeners who answer with enthusiasm all the questions of the visitors, even the most eccentric… to believe that the petrification of objects (sold in the shop) gives ideas!

Caves and caving, the treasures of Vercors

Massive limestone, the Vercors has been shaped for millions of years by erosion which has hollowed out infinite cavities, formed canyons and drawn a unique relief.

In the cave of Choranche , the spectacle of stalactites, called fistula because of their finesse, surprises. As we progress, light gushes out, illuminating a forest of crystal needles which is reflected in an underground lake. The stalactites appear around the cavities and curious white salamanders swim at the bottom of the lake.

In the Thaïs cave in Saint-Nazaire-en-Royans, the spectacle is different. Colored by kaolin, the waters run along the walls and print red and brown spots. A specificity that makes speleologists happy.

With more than 4,000 cavities, the Vercors offers an astonishing range of unusual places to explore. Between the gulf of Berger, the vats of Sassenage, the majestic cave Bournillon and the Cave Bear in Saint-Martin-en-Vercors, the choice is difficult because each one has a special charm.

Formerly a hospital during the Second World War, the Luire cave is undoubtedly the most moving due to its history. Today, the guides who show it around teach children to make their torches in order to explore one of the largest underground networks in the Drôme. A magical walk in the depths of the earth.

Hiking in the Vercors natural park

Created in 1970, this park is one of the oldest classified natural reserves. Its uniqueness is to be crossed by two different climates and therefore to present particularly varied landscapes and flora. A mountain climate in the north and a Mediterranean more in the south. Fun for a small territory of barely 60 by 40 km, which includes around sixty municipalities!

To see it, nothing like going to the side of the Furon pass, at 1,230 meters above sea level. Damien, mountain guide, takes the opportunity to remind us that the management of the forest is much more respectful of nature today than under Colbert. The choice of selective cuts and the creation of clearings makes it possible to effectively protect our forests.

The 3-hour walk (particularly suitable for children) passes at full speed according to observations of anthills and squirrel tables that have not yet been cleared. Animal life is said to reveal the health of the forest. Obviously, that of the park is healthy.

You just have to go watch the marmots and ibex early in the morning on the Molières side to realize this. The chamois is rather gather in the evening near Villard-de-Lans. As for the bighorn sheep, they are more than 1,700 meters on the Vercors ridges.

The walk continues towards the Croix des Suifs before descending to the Auberge des Allières at 1,426 meters above sea level. This old sheepfold with its traditional slate roof is known for its wood-fired raclettes, the Vercouline with Vercors blue perfect after a walk in the forest.

Summer and winter (closed in October until December), the inn is always full, and reservations are made several months in advance.

Bike trip in the Vercors park

The park lists more than 2,000 km of marked routes dedicated to bicycles, 6 labeled sites and 5 stages of descent, not to mention the circuits reserved for mountain biking on the high plateaus and the 52 km of soft lane on Via Vercors. A perfect opportunity to test one of these mountain bikes with electric assistance (VTTAE) which revolutionizes the mountain. Ideal for crisscrossing the mountains without having the calves of cyclists.

Meet at Caroline’s at the Feneys alpine refuge at 1,522 meters above sea level. Just long enough to take a look at its particularly comfortable refuge and its menu filled with local specialties, before joining Norbert who prepared the bikes. After a brief initiation, take the panoramic route “Les Fenets – La Molière – La Sûre”, to reach the refuge of Gève 15 km below.

We left for a discovery of a landscape punctuated with belvederes (Charande) and plains well almost, because the beginnings are difficult, and the eyes remain only riveted on the handlebars. A few minutes later, the perilous passages become child’s play!

A quick stop at the Robertière crossroads to enjoy the view of the Belledonne massif and off we go again for a descent through stony paths and undergrowth punctuated with clearings. The impression of speed is exhilarating, and fatigue is barely felt. A difficulty? It is quickly overcome with the “fast speed” engaged!

The arrival at the heart of a magnificent clearing at the foot of the Gève refuge is a gift. This is where Claire and Marick open their doors each year to hikers, winter skiers and gourmets. After tasting a blueberry pie, it’s time to join the village of Autrans, on a tarmac road this time.

The plain of Vassieux, land of resistance in Vercors
Marion-Rose fell in love with the plain of Vassieux the day she started crossing France on horseback. Since then, she has remained in this corner of paradise south of the Vercors, where she crosses the plain and its mountains accompanied by riders. That day, she gave us an appointment at Pow Grayon in an equestrian relay in the middle of the fields at 1100 meters above sea level.

As soon as the village of Vassieux is passed, the horses run alongside the remains of the Mûre windmills to sink into the forest. A stele at the edge of the path recalls how the massif was subjected to the throes of war during the Plan Montagnard.

Transformed in 1944 into a bastion of the Resistance, the Vercors – and particularly Vassieux – was the scene of intense fighting. Hundreds of young soldiers were sacrificed, and the plain served as a landing strip for enemy forces.

The memorial, hidden in the mountain, evokes this painful story. From the top of its belvedere, a sort of door open to freedom, we discover the plateau. Each point of view is associated with a historical fact.

In all, nine places of memory, including the ruins of Valchevrière and the village of Malleval, are accessible and are part of a route called “the paths of freedom”, available on the site of the memorial. On each of these sites, an yew was planted in memory of the missing soldiers. A particularly moving visit.

Hiking in the highlands of Vercors

Unique is undoubtedly the most appropriate qualifier for this strip of land nestled under the impressive silhouette of the Grand Veymont between 1,050 and 2,341 meters above sea level. At the heart of this protected nature reserve, there is no home or road, and the sheep come to graze for a good part of the summer.

The hike begins not far from the Rousset pass to continue to Pré Peyret to reach the Cabane de Carette and the village of Corrençon-en-Vercors (unless you prefer to make a loop).

Sixty kilometers of a landscape oscillating between hooked pine forests, deserted plains and cliffs populated with chamois, eagles, marmots, owls and black grouse. A hike far from everything and punctuated by a dozen huts where it is possible to sleep without booking.

Here, water is scarce, and the water points are often dry, so it can be useful to rent a donkey if you do not want to carry too much. True to their reputation, some are capricious but Christian, owner of fifteen donkeys at Chapelle-en-Vercors, has the gift of asking you a few questions before leaving to choose the right animal.

The hike continues in small strides in three or four days. On the way, trained walkers overtake us. They chose to leave from Grenoble to join Châtillon-en-Diois in order to follow the Grande Traversée du Vercors on the GR91, a 100 km hike (five days) through the whole massif. A difficult route that some prefer to split into several sections.

Villard-de-Lans, above all sporty

The Villard-de-Lans resort, renowned in the 1920s for its climatic virtues, stretches at the foot of the highest peaks of the Vercors massif, the Grande Moucherolle and the Arêtes du Gerbier.

Around the climatic school (large building built in 1964), the Via Vercors follows its gently sloping road, which spans over 55 km. The circuit, reserved for pedestrians and bicycles, is punctuated by signs and playgrounds for children.

In the evening in Villard, it is not uncommon to come across ibexes and sometimes even champions. The arrival of Tony Parker (he bought the ski area) is not for nothing and the station suddenly found itself in the limelight. Fortunately, it has not lost its sporting soul, far from the atmosphere of some Alpine resorts.

For several years, the town has partnered with its neighbor Corrençon to become a training center for biathlon athletes. Outside the winter season, you don’t need to be a champion to test your range and ski-wheels, but watch out for falls! The initiation seems easy at first, but the difficulty increases with the inclination of the macadam tracks that run along the golf course.