The first green capital of Europe, Stockholm lives in harmony with nature. This metropolis, which has one of the most beautiful old cities on the continent, is built on a magnificent site: a set of 14 islands between Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea. Stockholm seems, like an urban Venus, to be born of water.

With a rich historical heritage, the Nordic city does not fall asleep on the laurels of the past. Stockholm is also a dynamic, cosmopolitan and vibrant city, particularly in the fashionable Södermalm district.

Finally, and this is what makes it unique, a natural wonder is on its doorstep: an archipelago of around 30,000 islands dotted with an arm of the sea opening onto the Baltic. Day trips by ferry are possible from the city center. Do you want a peaceful holiday? The islands of the archipelago also offer pleasant resorts, just a few kilometers from the Swedish capital.

It was here, at the meeting of the fresh waters of Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea, that it all started in 1252. Stockholm was born, with the construction of a fort on the current Gamla Stan Island to control trade. between the sea and the lake. The future Swedish capital quickly becomes the main city of the country thanks to the relationships it establishes with the Hanseatic cities.

Small jewel, Gamla Stan testifies, even today, of this prosperity, with its colored gabled houses, its alleys prohibited with the circulation, its bell-towers of church, and its secret places. If the main street is a bit overrun with tourist stalls, the rest of Gamla Stan seems to have remained the same for ages.

It feels like a fairytale setting, especially on Stortorget square (photo), the old heart of the city, bordered by tall colorful houses in the Dutch Renaissance style. Still at Gamla Stan, the royal castle (Slottet) contrasts with the rest of the old town by its gigantic size. Built in the 13th century, then rebuilt in the 18th century, this classic building of over 600 rooms was the residence of Queen Christine and the last home of our national Descartes.

Right next to Gamla Stan, the island of Riddarholmen (the “knights” island) lives up to its name: the nobility had magnificent palaces built there in the 17th century, while all Swedish sovereigns rested in their church since the 16th century.

Recently, a guided tour, by reservation only, allows you to climb on the roof of the old Parliament, from where you have a breathtaking view of Gamla Stan. Another magnificent panorama of Stockholm: the view from the tower of the town hall (Stadhuset) , which is on the neighboring island of Kungsholmen .

Skeppsholmen and Djurgården: the museum islands

To the east of Gamla Stan, the islands of Skeppsholmen and Djurgården have no less than six major museums, including the National Museet (painting and decorative arts), the Moderna Museet (beautiful collection of modern art) and the Nordiska Museet (photo), installed in a magnificent Rococo building. But these are undoubtedly two museums unique in the world, which will catch your attention: the Vasa Museet and Skansen .

The first contains a sensational curiosity: the Vasa, a 17th century warship which sank in 1628 in the port of Stockholm. The ancestor of the Titanic, better, since this boat, cutting edge at the time, sank… a few minutes after having taken to the sea for the first time. The Vasa, refloated and restored identically in the 1960s, is presented to the public in a museum-warehouse, accompanied by an exhibition on its history and the navy in the 17th century. Let’s face it, the state of conservation and the richness of ornamentation of the ship leave you speechless. A must!

Next to the Vasa museum, another place apart: Skansen, the oldest open-air museum in the world, founded in 1891. This ethnographic museum is a sort of living conservatory of Swedish housing and traditions from the 14th to the beginning of the 20th century. Nothing dusty or boring here. Skansen is a smart amusement park.

You can admire more than a hundred traditional buildings (houses, farms, churches …) from all over the country, while costumed animators recreate Sweden and the trades of yesteryear. You can walk there on a pony, on a little train, attend folklore shows, visit a zoo or pleasure gardens. Everything to please from 7 to 77 years old…

Södermalm: the cool and trendy island

Far from being a museum city, Stockholm is the most dynamic capital of Scandinavia, a cosmopolitan and trendy metropolis, with its creators, trendy cafes and fusion restaurants. To be convinced, you have to go to the island of Södermalm, whose hill south of Gamla Stan overlooks Stockholm.

Former working-class district, “Söder” is the epicenter of the trendiness “made in Sweden”. Bohemian, but not snobbish atmosphere, on the SoFo side, east of Götgatan , the artery that crosses the island. Super lively bars from Thursday evening, restaurants giving a facelift to Swedish gastronomy, fashion or alter clothes shops, especially on Skånegatan street. More than in New York, SoFo, by its cool and quirky side, but also its buildings and parks (photo), reminds of the Berlin Kreuzberg. We love!

The north-west of Södermalm is quieter, with its bourgeois buildings and small houses from the 18th and 19th centuries, but also its antique shops, theaters and cafes. The district between Hornsgatan and Lake Mälar has the air of Swedish Montmartre with its steep and cobbled streets, its stairs and its gardens. A panoramic balcony-walk offers a superb view over the city.

Coming down from Söder, stop at the harbor in the red brick building of Fotografiska. The photo exhibitions are interesting and the bistro, on the 2nd floor, overlooks the port. Ideal for a drink.

If you’re in legs, continue to the neighboring island of Långholmen with its gardens and beaches. Because, yes, you can swim in town! It is not for nothing that Stockholm, the only city in the world to have a protected nature reserve within it, was the first “green capital of Europe” in 2010. One of the neighboring sectors of Södermalm, Hammarby Sjöstad, is even an international model eco-district. Did you say innovative?

The archipelago: 30,000 islands at the gates of the city

Between the mouth of Lake Mälaren and the Baltic, no less than 30,000 islands, islets and reefs form a sort of marine labyrinth, which has long protected the city from its enemies. This natural wonder, which is at the gates of Stockholm, makes it a unique capital in the world.

Of glacial formation, this archipelago has swarmed its granite confetti, more or less large, over fifty kilometers. It begins in the very heart of Stockholm, since the 14 islands on which the city rests come from the same geological formation.

The largest islands are found near the coast and are covered with dense coniferous, alder and birch forests. The further one goes towards the sea, the more the islands are fragmented and bare. Very quickly, you feel like you are far from everything.

A thousand of these islands are inhabited, including only 150 all year round. Long occupied by farmers and fishermen, the archipelago has become a privileged destination for summer holidays. It is in this idyllic site that the two young lovers of Bergman’s film A summer with Monika come to live their passion which will end with the beautiful days.

On the archipelago, life flows in unison with nature, by the water and in the heart of the forest, with ease. Here, a pretty little red wooden house or a simple shed acts as a paradise. With, if possible, a pontoon where a boat is moored. Without forgetting the silence, the song of the birds, the beautiful light of the North, especially in summer, when the sun never sets completely on the sea reflecting the sky.

Various islands

From Stockholm, the archipelago is accessible by ferry. It takes around 30 minutes to reach the nearest islands and up to 3 hours for the outer limit of the archipelago, with the two main companies Waxholmsbolaget and Cinderella. There are also organized excursions, ranging from half-day to full day. A stroll in the archipelago helps to understand the particularity of Stockholm and its maritime vocation. But above all, it is an opportunity to take full advantage of it.

Obviously, the ideal is to spend a few days there, in addition to visiting Stockholm. On the islands, there are AJs, Bed & Breakfasts and campsites. Please note, wild camping is not allowed everywhere. A good plan: the rental of stugas, the famous little red wooden huts on postcards. An authentic Swedish experience!

Not all islands are the same. The closest ones, Fjäderholmarna and Vaxholm, are not, in our eyes, the most representative. Vaxholm, quite touristy, is almost a town, certainly picturesque, with 1900 wooden houses, restaurants, a fortress.

Farther from Stockholm, Grinda, very popular with families, and Sandhamm, with beautiful sandy beaches (including one nicknamed “Trouville”), have a rather seaside side. The southernmost, Landsort , is renowned for its lighthouse, while the northernmost, Arholma , has pretty fields, cliffs and an AJ installed in an old farm. This island has long been a base of the Swedish Navy.

Others, like the idyllic Möja (photo), form a village community. Some families have lived there for generations. Möja, with 230 permanent residents, has 5 villages, its own school, church, grocery stores, a gym, restaurants … and around sixty businesses.

Finnhamn, a little boreal paradise

From Stockholm, it takes 2.5 hours by ferry to reach Finnhamn , which is at the eastern edge of the archipelago. The island, in fact a group of islets linked together, owes its name to the Finnish boats which made a stop there on their way to Stockholm. The site is breathtakingly beautiful, with its polished granite rocks, sea water of a deep blue and almost opaque, but also a vegetation of great diversity for this remote corner of the archipelago (pines, oaks, larches, birches …).

By disembarking at Finnhamn, one has the impression of being on an island at the end of the world. Only 6 inhabitants live here year-round (but many more in summer). The island is easy to explore on foot and offers many small protected coves for swimming, including the superb Paradise Bay where sailboats drop their anchor in summer.

The AJ is installed in a beautiful yellow wooden house, built on a hill at the beginning of the last century by a wealthy Swedish industrialist. It is masterfully held by Rolf and Ula who are a bit the soul – and the linchpin – of the island. You can also go camping in Finnhamn and rent your own stuga (400 € per week), equipped with a kitchen. The island also has a small grocery store and a good restaurant, Finnhams Cafe & Krog.

In addition to walks and swimming, it is possible to go kayaking, rowing, renting a motorboat, fishing, but also to have access to a traditional sauna cabin. No shower when leaving the sauna, we throw ourselves directly into the sea water!

Finally, don’t miss a trip to the small Idholmens farm, one of the last farms in the archipelago. Idholmens, run by Martina and her family, produces vegetables, eggs and meat in small quantities. You can visit the farm (for a fee) and buy its organic production, of course. In Sweden, we cultivate nature and naturalness with happiness.

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