Walking the streets of the Serenissima, you sometimes wonder where the Venetians are. If many have chosen to leave the centro storico, there are still 55,000 who live there year-round. The Venice of the Venetians still exists! Outside the tourist circuits, stroll through a popular and authentic Venice.

Campi, these places of life

Venice only tames slowly. You have to take the time to get lost, take an alley, stumble over a dead end, make the wrong bridge and turn back.

During your walk, take the time to observe the Venetians on the campi, large, often sunny places. Each campo has at its center a well, single water supply source to the 19th century.

If the campi have lost this community role since the construction of the pipes, they remain places of sociability. Numerous daily activities surround a campo: the market, children’s football and coffee to meet.

The campi generally bear the name of the church or palace located there. Some are particularly charming. Thus, in the Santa Croce district, the Campo San Giaccomo dell’Orio , sheltered from the flow of tourists, seduces with its plane trees, its Veneto-Byzantine campanile and its few coffee terraces. The church, dating from the 9th century, is one of the oldest religious buildings in Venice.

In the busy San Marco district, Campo Sant’Angelo is an oasis of tranquility after the hustle and bustle of San Marco square and offers a unique view of the inclined bell tower ofSanto Stefano.

In Cannaregio, Campo dei Mori owes its name to a rich family of merchants: the Mastelli. Three statues representing the three merchant brothers adorn the campo. One of them is famous for its iron nose. Towards the church of Madonna dell’Orto, you will find the facade of the Mastelli palace, recognizable by its relief: a dromedary loaded with goods coming from the East.

For a nice slice of Venetian life, head to Campo Santa Margherita, located near Ca ‘Foscari University. This square in the Dorsoduro district is very lively at night. Mingle with students and intellectuals while drinking an original cocktail at the Chetbar. In the morning, you will find a market selling fish, fruit, vegetables and clothing, in an almost village atmosphere.

Finally, you can even treat yourself to a painting at Campo San Paulo: attend an outdoor cinema session during the summer, thanks to Cinema Paradiso.

Originally the only bridge to cross the Grand Canal, the Rialto has always been at the heart of Venetian life. This is where fresh produce, vegetables and spices were brought. With its famous market, it has remained an appointment for the Venetians who meet there every weekend.

Around nine o’clock, take a walk along the fish stalls of the central Pescheria . Under the hall, the locals sell wolf, sole, sea bream, red mullet and shellfish from the lagoon. At the water’s edge, the market gardeners offer fresh fruits and vegetables such as red chicory, romanesco cabbage and young artichokes.

Venetians like to drink a coffee or an ombra with a few cicchetti (Venetian appetizers) right after the market. A very local address: Al Merca. We drink a spritz standing outside while eating a few sandwiches.

True Venetians only buy “Nostrani”, that is to say the vegetables that have grown on the island of Sant ‘Erasmo in the lagoon. You can ask for “Nostrani” at the Rialto market or choose to buy them directly from the boat located at Campo San Barnaba.

Today, transport is done by motorized boat, but the passion for the oar remains. To sail on the canals of Venice rocked by the lapping of the oar is to give yourself the opportunity to better grasp the identity of the Serenissima. The voga venata, rowing is practiced standing on a flat-bottomed boat, is a true Venetian sport.

There are many clubs where the Venetians train for the races. The opportunity for them to then participate in annual races such as the Regata storica or the Vogalonga.

Contact the Venice on board rowing school to discover the city in a different way.

Outside the period of the Biennials of contemporary art and architecture, the Castello district has retained its popular atmosphere, with its alleys, its many shops and authentic osterie. From the famous Giardini, these Napoleonic gardens located at the water’s edge, the view of the island of San Giorgio and the Lido is exceptional!

Also, in the district, the military port of Arsenal is open only during the Mostre (Biennials). Its entrance is recognizable by the two statues of lions, symbols of Venice, dating from the 17th century, located on each side. Go along the quay to the Pavilion of Italy and take advantage of the Gulf of Biennale car which brings you back to the entrance. One of the most beautiful walks in Venice.

Former popular district, Cannaregio is becoming more and more trendy. In its heart, several bars-restaurants have opened on Fondamenta della Misericordia in recent years, ensuring a festive atmosphere after dark.

Young Venetians and travelers meet at Al Timon’s. The advantage of this place: the possibility of having an aperitif on the water! Their boat moored on the terrace awaits you from 6 p.m. for a glass of wine and a few cicchetti.

A stone’s throw away, the Paradiso perduto offers an industrial setting with excellent fish and alla granceola pasta (spider crab). Rock, jazz and world music concerts are held there on weekends.

Around 9 p.m., it’s time to go for a walk in the Ghetto Ebraico. It is in this district, place of an old foundry (“Ghetto” means foundry in Venetian), that the Jews received in 1516 the instruction to live in a separate and closed place. They remained confined there until the occupation of Venice by Bonaparte in 1797. Recognizable by its tall four-story houses, the Ghetto conceals a pearl, the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo which, lit up at night, is magnificent.

In this secret Venice, you can take a night stroll without crossing a living soul. And the city is safe!

The city has preserved its tradition of craft printing. Opened by a collective of artists, the Bottega del Tintoretto is an art printing house located in the artist’s former workshop. This place organizes initiations to the classic techniques of engraving and lithography. It is also a publishing laboratory, allowing the production of books, from printing text to binding.

It is thanks to this place that two authors, Florence Faval and Pierre Hornain, created the Éditions du Dromadaire. This house publishes children’s books in French and Italian. You can find them in Sullaluna, a bookshop offering drinks, homemade cakes and illustrated books.

To the north of the Cannaregio district, Fondamente Nove is the quay where the vaporetto station is located, which serves the airport, the whole city and the islands of the lagoon. Venetians are used to having a coffee there or eating a pasta dish before or after work. The Fondamenta quays enjoy a superb view of the island of San Michele, recognizable by its numerous cypresses.

Another major quay in Venice, this time south of Dorsoduro: the Zattere, to be surveyed preferably at the end of the day. There is a breeze that refreshes the atmosphere. Athletes jog, idlers stroll around eating ice cream, artists settle into sketch.

From the Chioschetto, a small kiosk appreciated by the locals for its terrace at the water’s edge, enjoy the golden light while drinking a beer or a spritz facing the island of Giudecca.

This is an unusual activity: discover the world of gondola builders, by visiting a squero. The squero is a shipyard for the construction, maintenance and repair of gondolas. If the number of squeri has decreased in the Serenissima with the generalization of the engine, there are six left. The best known is that of San Trovaso , open to visitors.

The forcola (fork), the centerpiece of the gondola, is made in the squero. The forcola is the fulcrum of the oar on a gondola. It undergoes all the constraints of the maneuver. Each piece is cut in walnut according to the silhouette and the way of rowing of the gondolier. Some Venetians even have a forcola at home which they display as a work of art.

One more delicious way to spend an evening in Venice: catch a show in the legendary hall of the Fenice, in the district of San Marco.

Inaugurated in 1792, this neo-classical opera house has a five-story hall decorated with gilding. La Fenice has hosted the biggest opera houses in Europe, as well as plays, ballets and classical music concerts. It is in this place steeped in history that the great premieres of Rigoletto and La Traviata by Verdi took place. Stravinsky, Britten and Prokofiev even wrote works specifically for this opera.

La Fenice was destroyed by devastating fires twice, in 1836 and in 1996. During the last disaster, the city hesitated to build a more contemporary opera house. But the Venetians were so attached to the Fenice that they wanted to reconstruct it identically, “Dove era e come era”. (“Where he was and how he was”). Despite a stormy fate, the Fenice is reborn from its ashes every time and the Venetians go there regularly. Hence its name which means “Phoenix” in Italian …

Tongue of land stretching between the lagoon and the Adriatic Sea, the Lido is the seaside resort of the Venetians. On long hot days in August, locals go there for a family picnic. Some even rent a “capanna” (fabric hut) for the season. After swimming in the sea, they often play buracco, a local card game while having a coffee at the beach restaurant. Enjoy the popular and family atmosphere of the beautiful Alberoni beach.

If you like cycling, a track runs along the Murazzi, this long defense wall punctuated by small dikes. The water is warm and shallow. There are many crabs there and huts made of pieces of wood provide shelter from the sun.

But the Lido, immortalized by Luchino Visconti in Death in Venice, is above all the place of the famous Film Mostra, created in 1932, the oldest film festival in the world. Many actors and directors go there every year to promote their film. You can buy tickets on the festival site. If you like to see stars, order a spritz and stroll on the terrace of the Excelsior hotel before the 8 p.m. screening.

Announced by the roar of sirens, Acqua alta is a phenomenon that takes place during autumn and early spring.

The term meaning “high water” indicates a peak of tide which submerges part of the city. Circulation then becomes very difficult. The Acqua alta period is considered to extend from mid-September to mid-April. The waters overflow the canals for 4 hours, generally between 10 am and 2 pm.

The shops remain open, however. Bring a good pair of boots and browse the wooden walkways installed in the streets to allow pedestrian traffic. You will see, Venice is all the more charming with a little taste of adventure!

History says that the first inhabitants of the lagoon would have settled on the island of Torcello to escape the barbarian invasions. Today, the island is the favorite place for honeymooners and romantic walkers.

After a fried fish, in the flower garden of the Osteria Al ponte del Diavolo, take a walk under the pomegranates and fig trees, before visiting the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta and its Byzantine mosaics. Change of scenery guaranteed.

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